Our Leather

    Only 10% of the world's leather is made this way.

    Most leather is processed quickly, with chemicals, to meet the demands of fast fashion. The result looks fine on day one. The difference shows up over years. Vegetable-tanned leather, the kind used in every Republic of Florence piece, does something the other 90% can't: it gets better the longer you carry it.

    The Material

    What vegetable-tanning actually means

    TANNING IS THE PROCESS THAT TURNS RAW HIDE INTO LEATHER. THERE ARE TWO WAYS TO DO IT. THE FAST WAY TAKES DAYS. THE RIGHT WAY TAKES WEEKS.

    Chrome tanning, the standard for 90% of the world's leather, uses chromium salts and chemical accelerants. It's fast, cheap, and produces a consistent, uniform result. The leather looks the same on day one as it will on day one thousand. Which is to say: it doesn't improve. It just slowly degrades.

    Vegetable tanning uses natural tannins extracted from tree bark and plants, the same process used in Tuscany for centuries. The hides are submerged in tanning pits and moved through progressively stronger solutions over weeks. The result is a denser, firmer leather with an open grain that breathes, absorbs, and responds to use.

    It doesn't wear out. It wears in, developing a patina that is entirely its own, a record of where it's been and how it's been carried.
    WHAT WE USE
    VEGETABLE-TANNED
    • Process
      Natural tannins, weeks in tanning pits.
    • On day one
      Structured, with a natural feel and visible character.
    • Over time
      Softens, darkens, develops a personal patina.
    • Grain
      Full, open, unsanded — no coating hiding the hide.
    • Result
      Gets better the longer you carry it.
    • End of life
      Biodegrades naturally.
    INDUSTRY STANDARD - 90% OF LEATHER
    Chrome-tanned
    • Process
      Chromium salts, days in chemical drums.
    • On day one
      Soft, uniform, consistent colour.
    • Over time
      The coating can dull, stiffen, and reveal the hide beneath.
    • Grain
      Often corrected or coated to hide imperfections.
    • Result
      Fine on day one. That's as good as it gets.
    • End of life
      Persists for decades in landfill.
    The Patina

    What happens over time

    This is the physical consequence of the material choice. Not a marketing claim, it is a description of what vegetable-tanned leather actually does when it's used

    DAY ONE

    Structured. Colour at its lightest. The grain is fully visible. No coating, no correction.

    First 60 days

    The leather softens and begins to conform to how you carry it. Colour deepens slightly. Handles and straps start to feel like your own.

    Year one

    Patina develops. Colour grows richer. Areas of wear take on a subtle sheen. The leather begins to reflect your use.

    Year five +

    The bag looks better than it did on day one. Not despite use, but because of it. This is what vegetable-tanned leather is made to do.

    We encourage customers to share their bags at year two, three, five. Not because we need the content, but because it’s the most honest proof we have. The leather does the talking.

    The Finishes

    Classica and Opaca: same leather, different character

    Both lines are made from the same full-grain vegetable-tanned leather sourced from our Tuscan tanneries. The difference is in the finish and how each one ages.

    CLASSICA

    Polished Finish

    Full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather with a polished, luminous surface. Not coated. The sheen comes from the finishing process, not from a synthetic layer. The grain is fully visible.

    Colours

    The sheen deepens over time. Areas of use develop a richer, darker tone. The patina on Classica is more visible, the contrast between aged and new leather is part of its character.

    Section Image
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    Opaca

    Matte Finish

    The same full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather, and finished matte. Softer to the touch from the start. The surface is more understated than Classica but equally durable and equally alive.

    Colours

    Opaca develops its patina more gradually, the matte surface softens and takes on depth rather than sheen. Over time it becomes quieter and richer at once.

    The Accent Line

    A note on non-vegetable-tanned pieces

    Honest disclosure

    Vegetable-tanned leather is the foundation of everything we make. But we offer a small, curated selection of non-vegetable-tanned finishes where the application genuinely requires it.

    The Accent line includes coated, pebble grain, and smooth calfskin leathers chosen for specific functional reasons: added water resistance, a broader colour range, or a particular texture that the vegetable-tanned process can't produce. Not to cut costs. Not to chase trends.

    Every Accent piece is selected against the same quality standard. The leather is still chosen carefully and made to last. The difference is in what it will do over time, Accent leathers won't develop a patina the way Classica and Opaca will. They will remain consistent and reliable. For some uses, that's exactly what's needed.

    If the patina and aging story matters to you and if you've read this far, it probably does: choose Classica or Opaca. If you need a specific colour or functional property that only Accent provides, you'll still be buying something made to last.

    COMMON QUESTIONS

    WHAT PEOPLE ASK
    BEFORE THEY BUY

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    Lorem Ipsum has been the industry's standard dummy text ever since the 1500s, when an unknown printer took a galley of type and scrambled it to make a type specimen book.

    Lorem Ipsum has been the industry's standard dummy text ever since the 1500s, when an unknown printer took a galley of type and scrambled it to make a type specimen book.

    Lorem Ipsum has been the industry's standard dummy text ever since the 1500s, when an unknown printer took a galley of type and scrambled it to make a type specimen book.

    Lorem Ipsum has been the industry's standard dummy text ever since the 1500s, when an unknown printer took a galley of type and scrambled it to make a type specimen book.

    The leather you're carrying today
    will look better in five years.

    That is not a promise. It's a physical description of what vegetable-tanned leather does when it's used properly. Every piece we make is built around this material, because nothing else does this.

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